Upcycle and amend: Bringing in a waistband

You will need:

- Garment that is too big around your waist

- Scissors

- Pins

- Tape measure

- Sewing machine thread and a bobbin (the same colour as your garment)

- Hand embroidery needle (if you aren't super confident on a machine)

Things to know before you begin:

- Dart = a tuck/fold in a garment to give shape

- Tacking = line of hand stitching used as a machine guide, and to keep fabric in place (will be removed after machined)

- Take note of the fabric you are using; you may need to change your machine needle to suit

- Don't worry about exact measurements. As you are doing this yourself, just work with trial and error until the garment fits and the darts are equal in width at the top.

First, try on your garment and, using your fingers, pinch how much fabric you want to bring in. Measure the length of this and divide that length in half. The result you end up with is the estimated width the top of your darts need to be. Turn your garment inside out, and from the waistband fold out your measured width where you want the darts (typically 2 either side of back seam or zip). Place a pin vertically, to hold this fold in place.

Then, fold the garment in half with your fingers pinching where your pin is on the waist band. After your first placed pin, start to create a diagonal pin line towards the edge of the fabric. Here, you may want to redirect your first pin.

It is important to note: the longer you make your dart, the more fabric you are bringing in (therefore changing the shape of the item). In this case, my garment was a tennis skirt, so I opted for a shorter dart in order to keep the fit and flare shape.

Make sure your last pin is on the very edge of the fold, as you don't want the dart to pucker - this means it will not lie flat when you wear it. This is what your garment should look like once both your darts are in.

Inside out and 2 vertically standing folds, each with a diagonal line of pins right up to the edge of the fabric. If you haven't already, try your item on inside out to test the fit. Adjust until satisfied, ensuring the darts still remain equal in measurements.

Turn your item right side out. Check you haven't caught any extra fabric or detailing in your pins, that the darts are in the correct place, are straight and come to a sharp point at the bottom. The aim is to make your adjustments as discreet as possible.

At this point you have 2 options:

- Sew your darts using the pins as a guide and manipulate the fabric with your hands, taking pins out as you go

- Or, using a needle and thread, tack the diagonal line. Ensuring a sharp point is still created, at the end of the dart.

Fold the item back in half, at the pinned line, ready for sewing.

Important to note: when preparing for sewing make sure the only fabric under the foot of the machine is the dart you want to sew. Manipulate and pull the fabric taught with your hands whilst the machine is sewing - as you don't want any puckering.

For neatness, pull your bottom thread up through the garment (by keeping hold of the top thread and lowering the needle all the way down and back up). Then, take the diagonal stitch line to the edge of the fabric. Since you pulled the bottom thread up, you are now able to tie a triple knot on the end of both threads. This is the neatest and most discreet way to finish off your dart. Just make sure your knot is close to the fabric and super tight!!

Depending on the fabric and garment you are adjusting, you can press the darts from the inside to make them lie flat. I opted not to do this, but if you are, press them with both folds facing in towards the centre.

Taa daa! A perfectly fitting skirt :)

“Best case scenario, your returned clothes end up going into a clearance sale or sit in the warehouse until they are out of season. However, in most cases these returns take a clear pathway to landfills.” (Aequem team, 2020) When you purchase clothes online or instore, then to return them days later as they are ill fitting – you are contributing to the textile landfill and fashion industry pollution. By learning how to adjust and amend garments, the reader of my blog post is able to gain the basic skills in tailoring and make their garments fit them perfectly. Encouraging multiple wear and re-enforcing the ‘quality over quantity’ incentive. In addition to this, by actively adjusting, sewing, and taking time to make the garment the exact fit desired the reader will hopefully have more care for the item and not view it as disposable.

Freya Fowler