Forget about Bella Hadid - Costume Designers run the world
We all know that the fashion world is hugely influenced by film and TV but who are the great minds behind the scenes? Costume designers have been silently running the fashion scene and swaying even the most prestigious fashion houses for decades, from Breakfast at Tiffany’s to the upcoming Barbie film and all the good old Netflix TV we've come to love (think Stranger Things and Bridgerton).
These unseen-by-the-public faces hold all the power over where and when we spend our money. For instance, a Kangol hat worn in Emily in Paris caused Lyst searches for the item to rise up to 342%. Likewise, a Dior tote bag shown in season 4 of Insecure was instantly trending on Twitter despite the £2,550 price tag.
The gorgeous looks in the hit film La La Land were created by the masterful mind of Mary Zophres. She explains that the first thing she does is break down the script before getting deep into the research. Being immersed in the aesthetic is everything and Mary likes to get in the mood by watching other movies with the same vibe, for La La Land, obviously classic romances and musicals are the way to go.
From La La Land to Black Panther: a trail-blazing film of its kind, with an equally trail-blazing costume designer. Ruth Carter became the first Black person to win an Oscar for Best Costume Design in 2019 for her Afrofuturistic designs. She combines traditional indigenous styles with modern technology to achieve an inventive approach to African fashion. The elegant crown worn by Angela Basset (Queen Ramonda) was 3-D printed, inspired by traditional Zulu women’s attire but given a futuristic edge, only fit for a queen of Wakanda.
Enough about Hollywood movies, the BBC’s very own Killing Eve, dubbed by Vogue as ‘The Most Fashionable Show on TV’ has - yep you guessed it - some of the best styles to grace our screens. Phoebe De Gaye, the designer behind the iconic looks of star Jodie Comer in season 1 of the show, said this about the tulle pink dress that kicked up a worldwide storm. “What it said in the script is she’s wearing a big poufy dress. I think (the creator), had, perhaps, something more classic in mind. I thought Molly Goddard’s stuff was just perfect for it because it has that subversive streak,”. And with that, Phoebe De Gaye became an icon in costume design and Molly Goddard a global phenomenon in Fashion.
As the influence of costume designers becomes more and more aligned with that of high fashion designers, it's well worth taking more notice of the rolling credits and investigating the name behind the clothes...
Thank you for reading!
Poppy <3
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